Planning Utilities for an Outdoor Kitchen: Gas, Electric, and Water

Most outdoor kitchen projects are planned visually first: the island shape, the countertop material, the grill brand, the patio surface, or the roofline over the cooking area. Utilities usually enter the conversation later, once the layout already feels settled. That order of operations is one of the most common reasons outdoor kitchen projects run over budget, fail inspection, or need to be partially rebuilt.

Utilities are not a finishing detail in an outdoor kitchen. They are the hidden infrastructure — gas or propane supply, electrical circuits, water lines, drainage, ventilation, shutoffs, access panels, permits, and inspections — that determines what can safely be built, where it can be placed, and what it will cost to build correctly.

Building departments routinely require rough plumbing, gas, and electrical work to be completed, tested, and inspected before it is concealed behind walls, insulation, cladding, slabs, or countertops. Once those visible surfaces are finished, changing the utilities underneath them becomes far more disruptive and expensive.

This guide walks through what utility planning actually means for an outdoor kitchen, why it needs to happen before the island design is locked in, and how gas, electrical, water, drainage, ventilation, and permitting decisions interact with layout, appliance selection, and long-term flexibility. It is written for homeowners planning a project, not for the licensed trades who will ultimately perform the gas, electrical, and plumbing work. That work should always be handled by qualified, licensed professionals in coordination with your local building department.

What Does Utility Planning Mean for an Outdoor Kitchen?

In an outdoor kitchen context, utility planning refers to the coordinated design of every system that keeps appliances powered, fed, drained, ventilated, and legally installed. That includes:

• Fuel supply — natural gas piping or a propane system sized for every connected appliance, not just the primary grill
• Electrical circuits — dedicated and general-use circuits, GFCI-protected outdoor receptacles, and lighting controls
• Water supply — potable water lines for sinks, ice makers, and beverage stations
• Drainage — a compliant path for sink and ice maker wastewater, including gravity drains, drain pumps, and required air gaps
• Ventilation — clearances and vent openings around gas appliances and enclosed island cavities
• Shutoffs and access panels — reachable valves and service points that do not require demolition to reach
• Permits and inspections — the local approvals required before gas, electrical, plumbing, or structural work can be concealed
• Future rough-ins — conduit, capped lines, or chases left in place for appliances or features you may add later

Utility planning is the work of deciding, before construction starts, what each of these systems needs to support the outdoor kitchen you want now — and, if you choose, the outdoor kitchen you might want in five years.

A homeowner researching layout ideas for a backyard project, such as the considerations covered in Outdoor Kitchens: Why Backyards Matter, will find that the utility questions below are just as important as the visual ones.

Why Utilities Should Be Planned Before the Island Is Built

Gas piping has to be sized around the total connected load of every appliance and the length of pipe run — not around a single grill in isolation. Appliance cutouts and island dimensions have to follow the manufacturer’s actual clearance and ventilation requirements. Outdoor receptacles and GFCI protection have to be coordinated with where sinks and wet areas will sit. Drainage has to be resolved before a sink or ice maker is added to the plan.

In some jurisdictions, current electrical guidance already expects a wiring pathway to be extended to an island even if the receptacle itself is installed later. The broader point is simple: the hidden infrastructure should be planned before the visible finishes are locked in.

When utility planning happens after the island design is finalized, homeowners tend to run into the same predictable problems:

• Venting conflicts between appliance requirements and the enclosed island cavity
• Undersized gas piping that cannot support every appliance running at once
• Missing electrical circuits for non-cooking equipment like refrigerators and ice makers
• Shutoff valves and access panels placed somewhere inconvenient — or somewhere that requires cutting into finished masonry to reach
• Drainage problems discovered only after a sink is installed
• Preventable demolition of countertops, cladding, or patio surfaces to correct any of the above

Here is the practical sequencing logic that avoids that outcome:

1. Select the appliances and confirm each one’s exact utility requirements from the manufacturer’s installation manual.
2. Size the gas service, branch circuits, water lines, and drains around those requirements.
3. Finalize appliance locations, shutoff locations, and access openings.
4. Rough in, pressure test, and inspect all concealed work.
5. Only then close walls, pour concrete, install cladding, set appliances, and template countertops.

Reversing that order — designing the visible island first and trying to make the utilities work afterward — is one of the most common and costly mistakes in outdoor kitchen construction.

Natural Gas Planning for Built-In Grills and Outdoor Appliances

Natural gas planning starts with total demand, not with the grill alone. According to the International Fuel Gas Code, gas pipe sizing is based on the total connected hourly load, on the assumption that every appliance on that line could operate at full capacity at the same time. Local gas-sizing guidance follows the same basic workflow: identify each appliance’s BTU input, convert that to the appropriate demand figure, and size the piping based on both total demand and distance from the meter.

That workflow matters because outdoor kitchens add gas load quickly. As a reference point, common built-in grill and appliance BTU ratings include:

• A 4-burner built-in grill rated around 66,000 BTU total
• A 5-burner built-in grill rated around 80,000 BTU total
• A built-in pizza oven rated around 24,500 BTU
• A high-performance power burner rated around 60,000 BTU

Add a side burner, a fire feature, or a patio heater, and the total climbs again — often past what an existing house gas line was ever sized to handle, especially if that same meter also serves a furnace, water heater, dryer, fireplace, or pool equipment. Some gas utilities explicitly tell customers that adding outdoor gas equipment may require a larger-capacity meter or a pressure review before installation.

Appliance manufacturer manuals also set specific installation expectations that shape the island design itself, including:

• Routing the gas line away from heat sources and sharp edges, with a minimum number of bends
• Keeping the final connection point accessible after installation, with a safety shutoff valve located there
• Ventilating the island cavity with unobstructed upper and lower vents, since LP gas settles low and natural gas rises
• Avoiding installation of built-in gas appliances under overhead combustible construction
• Requiring an insulated jacket around combustible island materials in some configurations

Every one of these details needs to be resolved before the island frame, masonry, or cladding goes up — not discovered afterward. This is exactly the kind of coordination question worth raising early with your appliance dealer, whether you are comparing built-in grill models through a resource like Prime Grill Shop or finalizing a full outdoor kitchen package with a designer.

Propane Planning When Natural Gas Is Not Available

For homeowners without a natural gas line to the patio, propane is a common and workable alternative — but it comes with its own set of siting, ventilation, and storage requirements that should be planned early rather than treated as an afterthought.

LP gas is heavier than air, so it tends to settle and pool in low areas rather than dissipating upward. That is why built-in propane installations depend on correctly placed lower ventilation, and why sealing a propane appliance into a tightly enclosed island cavity without adequate venting is a genuine safety concern rather than a cosmetic one.

Cylinder placement is also regulated. NFPA 58-based local guidance commonly requires that propane cylinders installed near a building be kept a minimum distance from building openings below the relief discharge, from exterior ignition sources, from direct-vent appliance openings, and from mechanical air intakes — and that cylinders not be placed under a building unless that space is substantially open to the outside air.

Consumer safety guidance, including tips referenced by the Consumer Product Safety Commission, also cautions against storing spare cylinders under or near a grill and recommends keeping cylinders upright and outdoors rather than tucked inside an enclosed cabinet.

A few additional propane planning points worth resolving before construction include:

• Tank access — the tank or cylinder needs to be reachable for refilling or exchange without disassembling part of the kitchen
• Appliance compatibility — some appliances are sold in separate natural gas and propane versions, and some support conversion kits with different regulators
• Professional conversions — fuel-type conversions should be performed only by a qualified, licensed gas professional, not as a DIY adjustment
• Fuel type decided early — choosing natural gas or propane late in the design process can force rework of gas routing, ventilation, and even island layout

Because propane and natural gas installations diverge on ventilation and clearance requirements, the fuel type should be one of the very first decisions locked in — well before appliance placement or island framing.

Electrical Planning for Outdoor Kitchens

Outdoor kitchens almost always draw more electricity than homeowners initially expect. Beyond lighting, a long list of non-cooking components still require dedicated power:

• Refrigerators and beverage centers
• Ice makers
• Pellet grills, which rely on electrical ignition and temperature control
• Rotisserie motors
• Ignition systems on gas grills
• Fans and heaters
• Entertainment equipment and smart controls
• Blenders and other small countertop appliances

Manufacturer specifications make the electrical load concrete rather than abstract. Outdoor undercounter refrigeration units commonly require their own 115V, 15-amp dedicated circuit. Residential ice machines typically call for the same — a dedicated 115V, 15-amp circuit, with manufacturers explicitly warning against using extension cords. Pellet grills require a grounded outlet of their own, since their ignition and control systems depend on continuous power.

A single shared convenience outlet is rarely enough once more than one of these appliances is in the plan. In practice, outdoor kitchens tend to work best when higher-draw appliances are separated onto their own circuits early in the design: refrigeration on one circuit, an ice maker on another where the manual calls for it, lighting on its own control plan, and general convenience outlets on a separate circuit. That separation is not just a matter of code compliance — it reduces nuisance breaker trips and makes future troubleshooting far simpler.

GFCI Protection and Outdoor-Rated Components

Outdoor receptacles carry stricter protection requirements than most interior outlets. Residential wiring guidance commonly requires that outdoor receptacles be GFCI-protected, listed as weather-resistant in damp or wet locations, and installed with weatherproof extra-duty in-use covers where exposed to the elements.

Areas with sinks and permanent food or beverage preparation — a common feature in outdoor kitchens with a wet bar or sink station — typically require GFCI protection as well.

One nuance worth flagging early: appliance manuals and electrical code do not always align perfectly. Some manufacturers note that GFCI or AFCI protection may cause compatibility issues with certain equipment and direct installers to follow local code regardless. The right response is not to guess. Choose your equipment early and let your licensed electrician and appliance dealer resolve any conflicts before concrete is poured or countertops are set.

Dedicated Circuits for Higher-Demand Appliances

As a general pattern, dedicated circuits are commonly required or strongly recommended for:

• Outdoor refrigerators and beverage centers
• Ice makers
• Electric cooking appliances
• Heaters
• Entertainment or audio equipment with continuous power draw

Deciding which appliances you want now — and which you might add later — before the electrical rough-in is one of the highest-leverage planning decisions in the entire project, because adding a dedicated circuit after the island is finished usually means opening up finished surfaces to do it.

Lighting, Task Lighting, and Low-Voltage Planning

Task lighting exists to put light where the work actually happens, and it improves safety and visibility for tasks like food preparation. In an outdoor kitchen, that principle applies directly to the grill face, prep counters, sink zones, and dining or serving areas.

A layered lighting plan tends to work well: line-voltage circuits for general and heavier fixtures, paired with low-voltage or LED task and accent lighting for flexibility around prep and dining zones. The technical wiring details of any lighting plan should be handled by a licensed electrician, but the layout decisions — where you want light concentrated, and where you might add fixtures later — are worth mapping out with your designer before the island and patio surfaces are finalized.

Resources like Prime Living Outdoors can be a useful starting point for visualizing how task and accent lighting fit into an overall backyard layout.

Water Supply for Sinks, Ice Makers, and Beverage Stations

Adding water to an outdoor kitchen changes the project category. A simple grill station with a gas line and an outlet is a relatively contained project. The moment a sink, ice maker, or beverage station enters the plan, the project becomes a plumbing project — with its own supply, drainage, shutoff, and winterization requirements.

Ice machines are a useful reference point for what that entails. In addition to potable water and electricity, they need ventilation air, a drain, and enough clearance for the unit to be pulled forward for service later. That last point matters for layout. If the appliance ever needs to be serviced or replaced, the cabinet in front of it cannot be permanently sealed shut.

Before finalizing appliance placement, it is worth confirming:

• Where the potable water supply line will originate and how it reaches each fixture
• Where accessible shutoff valves will sit for each water-using appliance
• How freeze protection will work in your climate
• Whether service access will remain available after the island is finished

Drainage: The Detail Homeowners Often Miss

Drainage is one of the most frequently overlooked details in outdoor kitchen planning, and it is also one of the most consequential to get wrong. For ice makers, there are multiple acceptable drainage configurations, but each one depends on the physical layout of the site. Gravity-drain models need enough fall to route water away naturally, while slab installations often require a drain-pump model to lift water to the drainage point. Long horizontal drain runs may need venting, and an air gap between the drain tube and the drain receptacle is commonly required by local plumbing code.

Sink drainage carries its own — often stricter — rules. Graywater regulations in many jurisdictions specifically exclude kitchen sinks and dishwashers from graywater systems. Colorado’s graywater control regulation, for example, allows graywater reuse only in jurisdictions that have adopted a compliant program, and it explicitly excludes kitchen sink wastewater from what qualifies as graywater.

The practical takeaway for homeowners: do not assume an outdoor sink can simply drain into the yard, a dry well, or an informal graywater setup. In most jurisdictions, kitchen-type wastewater has to be routed to an approved sanitary or code-compliant disposal system. Confirming this with a licensed plumber and your local building department — before you decide where the sink goes — will save you from a drainage retrofit later.

Winterization and Cold-Climate Planning

In freeze-prone climates, winterization needs to be part of the original design, not an afterthought discovered during the first hard freeze. Manufacturer winterizing instructions for residential ice equipment typically include shutting off the water supply, draining the reservoir, disconnecting the water line, clearing residual water with compressed air, and — for drain-pump models — using RV-specific antifreeze rather than automotive antifreeze.

General cold-climate plumbing guidance follows a similar pattern for other fixtures: shut off the water, open faucets to drain the lines, and clear remaining water from the system before temperatures drop.

For any outdoor kitchen in a cold-climate region, it is worth planning around these principles from day one:

• Place shutoff valves where they can actually be reached without dismantling cabinetry or countertops.
• Avoid routing water lines through trapped horizontal runs where water cannot fully drain.
• Confirm burial depth and frost-line requirements with a licensed plumber or the local building department before any trenching begins.
• Decide up front whether a sink or ice maker will remain in service year-round or be shut down seasonally, since that affects both appliance choice and cabinet access.

Concealed systems are far harder to service once the build is complete, which is exactly why winterization access should be confirmed before the island is closed up.

Ventilation and Access Around Gas Appliances

Ventilation requirements around gas appliances are not optional design flourishes. They are tied directly to the physical behavior of the fuel being used. Because LP gas settles low and natural gas rises, built-in gas appliance manuals commonly call for both upper and lower vents in an enclosed island cavity, with both left permanently unobstructed.

Other manufacturer and code-driven requirements that affect the physical build include:

• Built-in gas appliances should not be installed under overhead combustible construction.
• Combustible island materials may require an insulated jacket around the appliance.
• Access panels and shutoff valves need to remain reachable without demolition.
• Covered patio structures need extra coordination around overhead clearances, especially where gas cooking equipment is involved.

None of these requirements should be finalized by guesswork. Before any appliance is installed, its manufacturer’s installation manual should be checked directly, and the specifics should be confirmed with the professional handling the gas or electrical rough-in.

Permits, Inspections, and Licensed Professionals

Most outdoor kitchens trigger more permitting than homeowners initially expect. It is common for a single project to require separate permits for electrical work, gas or wood-burning appliances, plumbing, and fire features such as fire pits or fire tables. Plumbing permits may explicitly include water, sewer, gas piping, and valves.

Propane installations frequently add another layer of review tied to fire code and NFPA 58 compliance, covering tank placement, exterior piping inspection prior to backfill, and clearance requirements.

A few points apply broadly, even though exact requirements vary by city and county:

• Local codes vary. What is required in one municipality may not match a neighboring one, so always confirm directly with your local building department.
• Licensed professionals should be involved early. Electricians, plumbers, and gas fitters need to weigh in on capacity and routing before construction begins.
• Rough inspections typically must happen before concealment. Gas, electrical, and plumbing work generally needs to be inspected while still visible — before drywall, cladding, concrete, or countertops cover it.
• Missed inspections can force expensive rework. If concealed utility work was not inspected at the right stage, it may need to be exposed again to pass final approval.

Because permitting requirements are jurisdiction-specific, contacting your local building department early in the planning process — before layout and appliance decisions are finalized — is one of the simplest ways to avoid a redesign later.

Utility Routing Through Patios, Decks, Islands, and Covered Structures

Routing gas, electrical, and water lines through a yard or existing patio needs its own sequencing plan, especially if trenching, coring, or running lines under pavers or through a deck structure is involved.

Before any digging begins, national guidance recommends submitting a locate request through 811 several business days in advance so that buried public utility lines can be marked. It is worth taking a moment to contact 811 before digging for any outdoor kitchen project that involves trenching, regardless of how minor the digging seems. The same guidance that applies to fences or mailbox posts applies here.

Beyond the 811 locate request, the routing plan should account for:

• Sleeves and conduit placed under patios, pavers, or decking before hardscape work begins
• Access panels built into masonry or framed islands for future service
• Coordinating utility routing with covered patio structures, so lines are in place before roofing or ceiling finishes go up
• Sequencing utility rough-in before hardscape, masonry, or finish work — not after

Setting the routing plan before the visible hardscape is installed means inspections, sleeves, and any necessary repairs can happen while the ground and surfaces are still open, rather than requiring a cut into a finished patio later.

Planning for Future Outdoor Kitchen Upgrades

Homeowners do not need to install every appliance they will ever want on day one, but leaving a pathway for future additions is far cheaper than adding one after the fact. Some electrical guidance already reflects this principle directly: if an island or peninsula receptacle is not installed when cabinets and countertops go in, code in some jurisdictions still requires a wiring pathway — conduit, raceway, or cable to a covered junction box — to be roughed in for that future outlet.

Even where your local code has not adopted that exact requirement, it is a strong practical model to follow. The same logic reasonably extends to gas and water capacity as well. Worth considering before the island is closed up:

• Extra outlets beyond your current appliance count
• Spare conduit run to the island for future refrigeration, lighting, or entertainment equipment
• A capped water line stub if a sink is not part of the current plan but might be later
• Extra gas capacity or a capped tee if a side burner, power burner, or fire feature might be added down the road
• Accessible utility chases that do not require demolition to reach later
• Additional counter space reserved for a future appliance footprint

A homeowner planning a project around entertaining, for example — the kind of layout discussed in Home Design Ideas for Hosting at Home — may want a beverage station or additional prep space added in a later phase. Roughing in the pathway now, while the island is still open, is dramatically cheaper than adding it after the countertops and cladding are finished.

Common Outdoor Kitchen Utility Planning Mistakes

Nearly every recurring outdoor kitchen problem traces back to the same root cause: treating utilities as a secondary detail instead of a starting point. The most common versions of that mistake include:

• Choosing appliances before confirming their utility requirements
• Assuming an existing gas line or meter has enough spare capacity
• Forgetting electrical needs for non-cooking equipment like refrigerators and ice makers
• Installing too few outlets for the appliances actually being used
• Placing outlets or shutoff valves somewhere inconvenient or hard to reach
• Ignoring drainage requirements until after a sink or ice maker is already designed into the layout
• Skipping winterization planning in a freeze-prone climate
• Burying utility connections without leaving access panels
• Installing gas appliances without confirming ventilation requirements
• Finalizing the island design before confirming clearances and utility routing
• Failing to plan any pathway for future upgrades
• Waiting too long to bring in licensed contractors
• Skipping the 811 locate request before digging

Each of these is preventable with the same fix: confirm utility requirements and involve licensed professionals before the visible design is finalized, not after.

Practical Outdoor Kitchen Utility Examples

A Simple Natural Gas Grill Island

Even a straightforward built-in natural gas grill and a convenience outlet still requires a real gas load check, an accessible shutoff valve, compliant island ventilation, and a weather-resistant, GFCI-protected outlet. If the grill includes lighting, temperature probes, ignition electronics, or a digital display, it likely needs a dedicated nearby power source rather than an extension cord run out from the house.

A Full Outdoor Kitchen With Sink, Refrigerator, and Lighting

Adding a sink, refrigerator, and dedicated lighting layers in several systems at once: potable water supply, a compliant drain route, GFCI coordination around the sink and prep zones, a dedicated circuit for the refrigerator if required by its manual, and task lighting positioned over prep areas. If an ice maker is part of the plan, drainage may require a gravity fall, a drain pump, or an air-gap fitting depending on the site’s layout.

A Covered Patio Kitchen With Fans, Heaters, and Entertainment

A covered patio kitchen functions more like an outdoor room than a cooking station, and the utility planning reflects that. Expect more circuits, more switching zones, closer attention to overhead clearances above gas cooking equipment, and potentially more total gas load if heaters or fire features are included. This is a project type where licensed trades should be coordinated before any framing, roofing, or ceiling finish work begins.

For related planning considerations, see the Indoor-Outdoor Cooking Space Design Guide.

A Propane-Based Outdoor Kitchen

Where natural gas is not available, a propane-based kitchen can work well — provided tank location, ventilation, refill access, and appliance compatibility are resolved early. Spare cylinders should be kept clear of the grill itself, and enclosed island cavities need to be designed so LP gas cannot collect and settle low inside them.

A Cold-Climate Outdoor Kitchen

In freeze-prone regions, winterization should be part of the initial plan rather than a reaction to the first freeze. That means accessible shutoffs, a clear drain-down strategy, appliance-specific seasonal procedures, and a realistic decision about whether water-using appliances will run year-round or shut down seasonally.

A Future-Ready Grill Station

A homeowner who only wants a grill today can still rough in spare conduit to the island, leave an accessible utility chase, and reserve cabinet space for a future refrigerator, burner, or sink — all far cheaper to add now than after the countertops are set.

How to Plan Utilities Before Construction Begins

Before finalizing layout, appliances, or finishes, it helps to work through a straightforward set of questions with your designer and licensed trades:

• ✔ Which appliances do we want installed now?
• ✔ Which appliances might we add later?
• ✔ What fuel type will each appliance use — natural gas or propane?
• ✔ Do we have enough gas capacity on the existing line and meter?
• ✔ Which appliances require dedicated electrical power?
• ✔ Do any appliances need their own dedicated circuit?
• ✔ Where will outlets, switches, and shutoff valves be located?
• ✔ Will the kitchen need a water supply?
• ✔ Where will wastewater drain, and is that route code-compliant?
• ✔ How will the system be winterized in cold weather?
• ✔ What permits are required in our jurisdiction?
• ✔ Which licensed professionals — electrician, plumber, gas fitter — need to be involved?
• ✔ What work needs to be inspected before it is covered or concealed?
• ✔ How will utilities stay accessible for service and repairs later?

Working through these questions before the island design is finalized is the single most reliable way to avoid rework, missed inspections, and unplanned costs.

The Best Time to Plan Utilities Is Before the Visible Design Is Final

Utilities are the foundation of a safe, functional outdoor kitchen — not an afterthought layered in once the design looks finished. The strongest outdoor kitchen projects coordinate appliances, layout, island structure, gas and electrical capacity, water and drainage, permits, inspections, and future flexibility together, before construction begins.

Confirming utility requirements before finalizing the island, countertops, patio surface, or appliance package means you are far less likely to pay twice for the same work. Waiting until after the visible design is done almost always means the utility plan ends up forcing a redesign instead.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should utilities be planned for an outdoor kitchen?

Utility planning should happen before the island layout, countertops, patio surface, or appliance package are finalized. Gas, electrical, and plumbing rough-in generally need to be completed and inspected before finishes conceal that work, so decisions about fuel type, circuits, water supply, and drainage need to come first.

Do outdoor kitchens need permits?

In most jurisdictions, yes. Outdoor kitchens commonly require separate permits for gas, electrical, and plumbing work, and sometimes additional permits for fire features or covered structures. Requirements vary significantly by location, so confirm specifics with your local building department early.

Can I use an existing gas line for a built-in grill?

Not necessarily. Gas piping is sized around total connected load, and an existing line may already be at or near capacity from a furnace, water heater, dryer, or other appliances. A licensed gas professional should calculate total demand before assuming the existing line has room for a new grill or additional appliances.

How many outlets does an outdoor kitchen need?

It depends on the appliances involved, but homeowners consistently underestimate this number. Refrigerators, ice makers, pellet grills, lighting, and entertainment equipment can each require their own outlet or dedicated circuit, so the appliance list should be finalized before the electrical plan is set.

Can an outdoor sink drain into the yard?

Generally, no. Many jurisdictions specifically exclude kitchen sink wastewater from graywater systems, meaning it typically must be routed to an approved sanitary or code-compliant disposal system rather than draining into the yard or a dry well. Confirm local requirements with a licensed plumber before finalizing sink placement.

How do I winterize an outdoor kitchen?

Winterization typically involves shutting off the water supply, draining reservoirs and lines, and clearing residual water with compressed air or manufacturer-specific procedures. The specific steps vary by appliance, so always follow the manufacturer’s winterizing instructions and ensure shutoff valves are placed somewhere accessible.

Should I plan utilities for future appliances even if I am not installing them now?

Yes. Roughing in spare conduit, capped water or gas lines, and accessible utility chases while the island is still open is significantly cheaper than adding those pathways after cabinets, countertops, and cladding are finished.

Who should install gas, electrical, and plumbing for an outdoor kitchen?

Licensed professionals — including a licensed gas fitter, electrician, and plumber — should handle all gas, electrical, and plumbing work in coordination with your local building department’s permit and inspection process. This guide is intended to help homeowners plan and ask informed questions, not to substitute for licensed installation.